Land’s End

In Baja, we have seen the extremes.
Sometimes the river is more powerful than the bridge… we have been told there has been more rain this year than the past 5, 15 and 30 years (depending on who you speak to).
A seagull returns to the earth.

We left Scorpion Bay ready to see the rest that Baja had to show us, which meant endless miles of beautiful country roads.  Our open road, if you will.
En route to Punta Conejo, we crossed paths with some pre-runners for the Baja1000 tearing across the rugged trail.  Like astronauts on the moon, their modern machines equipped them with oxygen to help them breath thru clouds of notorious Baja silt.
Camped for one night in the dunes at Conejo.  Our heavy top is popped thanks to the GoWesty’s lift assist.  This was a sleepy little village that had a peaceful feel, and a friendly transvestite camp manager, Nardo.
Colette loves hermit crabs, and giggles with delight when we put them on her palm.  She says “chabbie chab, tickle, hand” – here, their paths tickle the wet sand.  These are the only superhighways we are seeing these days.It was a windy day with no swell, so we gathered some sea relics; assembled like an Ernst Haeckel illustration.
Wildflowers gathered roadside made their way into a dashboard bouquet.
On the slow back roads, Miss CocoNova gets to sit in her custom-built seat between our two captains chairs.  
We passed thru La Paz en route further south and grabbed some delicious food (with slightly inflated gringo prices, lesson learned- always ask how much each item is before you order).
Our pal Jenny Anderson  joined us for a stint- we relaxed at her place in Cabo then adventured to Todos Santos and Pescadero.  Casa Anderson was a very welcome indulgence with hot showers, a soft bed, laundry, pool and cable t.v.- Colette’s now calls cartoons “puppets.” 
Emily’s breakfast nachos were the cure for the celebrating we did the night before.
Roasted Cabo Salsa:

1) heat oven to 425degrees
in a glass baking dish put:
–      8 medium tomatillos, husked
–      1 medium onion, roughly chopped
–      1 head elephant garlic, roughly chopped
–      1/s tsp sea salt
–      splash evoo
roast until tomatillos pop open, and are completely soft.
2) on the stovetop:
wash & dry 3 fresh pasilla chiles, cut off tops, remove seeds, slice in half
place 1/2ed chiles on stovetop, charring over medium heat
3) in a food processor:
–      chop 1 small 4oz can of marinated chipotle peppers, put in mixing bowl
–      roughly chop hot roasted pasilla chiles, adding 1 tsp salt, juice of 3 key limes, 1 cup of fresh cilantro and 1 tbs black pepper; add to chipotle mixture
–     blend tomatillo mixture
4) add all 3 mixtures together and if necessary adjust with lime, salt and pepper.  Salsa will be warm, so cool if liked and ENJOY!  This one just gets better in the coming days.

 

This beach in Todos Santos was not as easy to get to as expected…
… as there was some super sticky deep mud on the way from van to sand.

Miguel’s “the Best” chile rellenos in Todos Santos; Adam’s plate of shrimp stuffed chile relleno and shrimp enchilada with arroz y frijoles.  While we didn’t have chile rellenos elsewhere in TS, Adam said “I think it was the best chille relleno I ever had” so that verifies it!

Colette has been expanding both her English and Spanish vocabulary exponentially!  She is chattering all day putting sentences together, and in Spanish can now say: hola, pesos, tortugas, adios and luna!

Our camp at the beach in Todos, as we couldn’t find our pal Art’s place… we fared pretty well regardless.

A local artisan at the farmers market; these beautiful baskets were originally used to keep tortillas warm.

Her nimble fingers flicked the straw with a relaxed confidence that comes with years of practice.

A giant rosary encapsulates the Dia de los Muertos shrine.
The “magic pueblo,” as Todos Santos is called, is teeming with inspiration.  Scenes from around town…
Near sunset we returned from town to the beach for a swim and a gander at the day’s catch.
Emily’s birthday-November 15- was spent on the buttery sand and crystal clear warm waters swimming, surfing and relaxing at Playa Cerritos.  Magically a mother grey whale and her calf put on a spectacular 10 minute show, where mother whale taught baby how to breach!  She would splash her massive flipper, then baby would jump; mother would jump, them baby would follow. It was our first time seeing grey whales and what a beautiful sight.  Emily got further pampered by a 1 hour massage under a shaded umbrella in the sand listening to the waves break- ooh yes!  Headed over with Jenny to our new Baja friends Dave, Brooke and little Oliver’s place for a homemade feast and festivities.  The right start for what is sure to be a good year!
It was nearly impossible not to drool on all the amazing textiles woven at this roadside tienda.
A family craft, this artisan has 25 years experience on his 2 pedal loom. 
A young apprentice at work.
At “Land’s End” in Cabo San Lucas.
We reached the famed arch after much climbing and well timed wave dodging.  The sea and stone are a mighty force, and this point is the dynamic apostrophe at the end of beautiful Baja!
Our camp at Cabo Pulmo on the East Cape, the only coral reef in the Sea of Cortes. 
Always something to fix on the van, this time a fuel pump.  Luckily we had a spare with us.   The replaced pump was originally salvaged from a van in a junk yard on the side of a hill above Ensenada, Baja, about five years ago.  Adam was with a buddy on a surf trip 40 miles down a dirt road when the fuel pump took a poop.  Three locals in a pick-up truck towed the van out to the main road where Devon waited as they drove Adam on a wild goose chase to find a spare pump.  We eventually got it all fixed and shared some Tecate’s with our guardian angels.  It never ceases to amaze me of the generosity and kindness that you will find from the people of Baja.  Most American’s will tell you otherwise because of hearsay and fear of the unknown.  Reporting from the front lines, good people out here. Currently in LaPaz, we plan on loading the van, and ourselves, onto a ship as cargo on Wednesday afternoon.   It is a 16 hour journey, covering 250 nautical miles- so we will spend some of Thanksgiving crossing the Sea of Cortes.  We are thankful to have had the chance to explore Baja and all of her beauty!  We will be quite thankful for our safe arrival in Mazatalan, Mainland Mexico…  Until the next post, Happy Thanksgiving and Adios!